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Examine Front Brakes
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Look for anything abnormal, leaking, rusted, or corroded. Also check the
brake line fittings to see if any look like they'll be difficult
to break free.
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Clean Area Around Brake Lines
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Clean up the area where you'll be working, as you don't
want any dirt or debris falling into your brake lines while
everything is unbolted. Degreaser, Simple Green, or Brake
Cleaner should work well.
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Loosen Bleed Screw
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Connect your brake bleeding hose to the bleeder screw on the caliper and
open the bleeding screw. The OEM screw uses a 10mm wrench and Speed Bleeders
(if you have them) use a 3/8" wrench.
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Loosen Brake Line Fittings
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Now you need to break one of the brake line fittings loose. I started
off with this one, but you can start anywhere you like. Use a 10mm line
wrench on the upper part of the fitting and a 14mm line wrench to steady the lower
part of the fitting. Repeat for all the locations of the brake line fittings.
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Remove Brake Line Clips
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There are little spring clips that hold the ends brake lines to the
brackets on the car. You'll need to remove these spring clips,
and I found that using a pair of Robo-Grips worked great. You may
have to wiggle the clips sideways to get them loose.
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Everything's Ready to Remove
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Make sure you've loosened all the fittings for the brake lines
and hoses, including the fitting on the caliper itself.
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Remove OEM Brake Lines
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Try not to spill too much brake fluid, and remember that it eats paint.
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Compare Old And New Brake Lines
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Make sure you have the correct-length lines. Old and new Lines shown.
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Insert New Brake Line Into Bracket
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Insert the new line into the bracket and thread in the fitting a few turns.
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Attach Spring Clip To Bracket and Line
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Reattach the clip like it was originally installed. I found a small
hammer to be very helpful at this point. After the clip is installed,
tightened down the flare fitting to the correct torque spec, which is
11 ft*lbs. Note that the hex stock that the 3SX brake lines
was machined from is standard (not metric), so you'll need to use a
standard line wrench on it, not your metric wrench. You'll need a 9/16"
and an 11/16" wrench. Thanks to Jesse Rink for emailing me the size
of these wrenches since I forgot to write it down when I was working
on my car!
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Repeat For Other Connections
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Now you repeat the threading and clipping process for each of the
other connections.
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Repeat For Other Front Brake
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I did the driver's side first. The passenger's side is exactly the same,
except mirrored.
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Repeat for Rear Brakes
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By now, you should have the process memorized. The rear brakes are pretty much the
same, so go to it!
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Bleed Your Braking System
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I have Speed Bleeders on my car, which greatly simplify the bleeding
process. I will describe how to bleed the brakes with them here. If
you have the OEM bleeder screws, please doo a Google search for
the traditional method of bleeding brakes.
Attach a small clear hose to the nipple on the bleeder screw after
removing the rubber cap. Put the other end of the hose in a disposable
jar or container. Loosen the bleeder screw by a 1/2 turn.
Bleed your brakes by filling the master cylinder
reservoir and then pumping the brake pedal up and down until you see
clean fluid in the tubing and no air bubbles. Make sure the master
cylinder reservoir doesn't run dry or you get to start all over.
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