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3000GT/Stealth Handling and Suspension Upgrade Guide
1. Introduction to 3/S Handling
2. Why Upgrade?
3. Lowering Springs
4. Dampers
5. Sway Bars
6. Complete Coilover Suspensions
7. Tires, Tires, Tires
8. Suspension Accessories
9. Suspension Tuning Tricks
1. Introduction to 3/S Handling
Mitsubishi and Dodge intended for 3000GT to be an ultimate high-performance
luxury tourer. Handling was one of the top goals, but not at the expense of
comfort. To reach that goal a number or high-tech features was added such as
all-wheel drive (AWD), all-wheel steering (AWS), adjustable damping control
(ECS), and a solidly solidly engineered suspension.
The car has a unique handling platform, which could be arguably considered
on the bulky side, with a near 4000 lbs weight, 58/42 weight distribution,
four identical tires, MacPherson front and multi-link rear suspension. The
above parameters, along with the 45/55 (or 40/60) fixed ratio AWD torque
distribution define the car handling characteristics. It is a stable and easy
to drive car that safely understeers at the limit and exhibits mostly
front-wheel drive qualities, while also having a few of the rear-wheel drive
features. Also need to be mentioned the central differential viscous clutch
and the rear limited-slip differential.
Most performance enthusiasts who took these cars to the road course agree
that the car handles extremely well right from the factory, but is a little
soft, a little heavy, rolls a lot, has ample power for most of the course but
could use some more acceleration on long straightaways. Among the first
experiences are terminal and on-power understeer and some deceleration and
brake oversteer. The car feels neutral at high speeds with loads of traction
and a high predictability. At the same time the car needs more agility and
faster reflexes in tight turns.
2. Why Upgrade?
The most common reasons to upgrade the suspension are to lower the car, make it
more stable, speed-up its reflexes, eliminate front tire roll and shoulder
wear, reduce the understeer, increase grip, increase the sense of control and
achieve faster lap times.
3. Lowering Springs
Lowering springs such as Eibach Pro-Kit, Intrax, Tein H and Tein S (insert
URL here) are drop-in replacement springs for the factory springs. They lower
the car by a fixed 1 - 1.5" and add some stiffness to the suspension
needed after lowering the car. The result is a lower car that has a lightly
increased suspension stiffness and reduced body roll.
Ground Control Kit (insert URL here) features standard 2.5" ID springs
and threaded coilover sleeves that are installed over the factory struts. The
threaded sleeves have lower spring perches mounted on them. By rotating those
perches the amount of lowering (the ride height) can be adjusted to owner's
liking. Lowering the car too much should be avoided as the car will be hitting
bump stops and both ride and handling will deteriorate.
Since the 2.5" ID springs are standard and popular racing springs, the
Ground Control kit can be ordered with springs of various spring rates. Ask
your friends or your favorite shops for spring rate recommendations. It is
also important to note that the Ground Control springs are shorter than the
OEM springs that they replace. A technically correct way to run them is with
helper springs (insert URL here) in order to prevent spring clunking and
unseating the springs from the upper or lower spring seats during occasional
full strut extensions or wheel lifts.
Lowering S |
Lowering Amount (in) |
Spring Rate,
Fr/Rr, lbs/in |
Price |
S |
0 |
222/160 |
$0 |
Eibach Pro-Kit |
|
|
|
Intrax |
|
|
|
Tein H Springs |
|
|
|
Tein S Springs |
|
|
|
H&R??? |
|
|
|
Ground Control Kit |
1.5 - 2.0" |
Typically 550/375 or
customer specified |
$360-400 |
4. Dampers
If one of your dampers are leaking, or if the car feels unstable at high
speeds (dampers leaked or are worn) then it is time for replacement dampers.
There are several available options.
Factory stock dampers (ECS equipped) are a considered a good option. They
are available from a number of discount Mitsubishi dealers (insert URL
here).
KYB GR-II struts (insert URL here) are inexpensive non-ECS replacement
struts. They provide less damping though and are similar to the factory ECS
shocks in the touring mode.
KYB AGX???
Bilstein (insert URL here) front strut inserts and rear struts are
available for turbo models. The rear struts have different springs seats and
must be used with H&R lowering springs. The front units are not complete
struts but strut inserts. The factory units must be disassembled and the
Bilstein inserts must be dropped in. (???)
5. Sway Bars
Thicker sway bars is an upgrade on its own. They are one of the best bang
for the buck handling upgrade for the Stealth/3000GT. They increase roll
stiffness and reduce body roll, which serves two purposes. Firstly, this
speeds up the reaction of the car to the steering wheel input and makes the
car feel more nimble. Secondly, this reduces the body roll, which is very
important to be kept to a minimum. With our MacPherson front suspension body
roll translates into tire roll almost 1:1, especially if the car was lowered.
If the body roll is reduced then the tire roll is reduced too. This makes the
tires happier and increases lateral G's.
Stiffer springs of the complete coilover kits also reduce body roll in a
similar manner. More about this in the the next section.
Saner makes thicker sway bars for turbo models and Addco makes NA sway
bars.
Sway Bar Model |
Diameter, in (mm) |
Price |
Factory turbo front |
0.906 (23 mm) |
$0 |
Factory turbo rear |
0.866 (22 mm) |
$0 |
Saner front |
1.250 (?? mm) |
$180 - 200 |
Saner rear |
1.125 (?? mm) |
$180 - 200 |
One may also notice that the upgraded front bars are disproportionately
thicker than the upgraded rear bars. And, FYI, the torsional stiffness is
proportional to the diameter in the 4th power! So, as a result, a car equipped
with both upgraded Saner sway bars will understeer more. But there is hope...
The rear Saner bar has multiple end link attachment holes, which is
advertised as an adjustability feature. In reality though the only useable
hole is the last one.
The front bar, however, does have an undocumented adjustability. The end
links can be bolted to it from either outer side or the inner side. If bolted
from the inner side the lower end of the end link becomes closer to the lower
control arm swing axis, which decreases the leverage of the sway bar,
effectively makes the front end softer and reduces the understeer.
(insert end link picture here)
Some owners prefer to upgrade just the rear sway bars in their quest to
decrease understeer. They often achieve desirable handling results at lower
speeds. However this is a potentially dangerous path because the car may
become tail-happy at high speeds too and high-speed oversteer conditions are
almost impossible to recover from. If one chooses to pursue this option
he/she must verify the high-speed handling on
a closed road course in a safe wide-open place.
6. Complete Coilover Suspensions
Complete coil over suspensions feature assemblies of damper struts and
matching springs. These are usually higher-end units aimed at a serious
performance enthusiast and come with stiff springs for a no-compromise car
control, camber plates (insert URL here) and adjuster screws for fine tuning
of damping.
Some coilover kit owners
Just like thicker sway bars they
Here are the popular models:
Model |
Spring Rate,
Fr/Rr, lbs/in |
Available Travel, (Comp+Rebound) |
Special Features |
Price |
Stock with ECS |
222/160 |
Front 5.91 total
Rear 7.99 total |
Conventional twin-wall
dampers |
$0 or $700 from discount
dealers for new struts |
Tein HA |
|
|
Conventional twin-wall
dampers,
Camber plates included |
|
Tein Flex |
|
|
Conventional twin-wall
dampers,
Ride height is adjusted independently of spring preload,
Camber plates included |
$1,450 - 1,650 |
JIC FLT-A2 |
783/559
(14/10 kg/mm) |
Front (2.73+1.40)
Rear (2.73+1.40) |
High-pressure inverted
monotube dampers,
Ride height is adjusted independently of spring preload,
Camber plates included |
$1,650 - 1,800 |
7. Tires, Tires, Tires
Actually, upgrading your tires can make your car faster in an instant. But
sticky tires are always the ones that wear quickly and cost more, so this
becomes a matter of individual decision for everyone. One thing is for sure
though. Wider tires are stickier and wear less. But again, they cost more and
this cost is recurring because the tires are wear items.
The diameter and the width of the tires is one of the most important
decisions. The stock diameters are 17" and 18" x 8.5" wide. It
is absolutely safe to buy 9" and even 9.5" rims and 275 mm wide
tires, provided the rims have a proper offset. The rim selection topic is too
large and is intentionally omitted here, but here are some of the popular tire
choices that are used for aggressive street use, autocross and road
racing:
Tire Brand |
Size |
Features |
Price |
Kumho |
|
|
|
Yokohama |
|
|
|
Toyo |
|
|
|
8. Suspension Accessories
Camber plates, tender springs, helper springs, polyurethane bushings, wheel
spacers, rear upper control arms, tower braces,
9. Suspension Tuning Tricks
Tire pressures, camber/caster/toe, ride height, springs, sway bars,
dampers, weight distribution, aerodynamics
Wishing your a tuning success and faster corners,
- SCE
Please send your corrections and additions to webmaster@supercar-engineering.com
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